Climb Matterhorn
Advanced Level | Group Course, Private Guiding

The Matterhorn Ascent Challenge

Climbing the Hörnli ridge earns an AD+ rating on the alpine scale. It’s a formidable ascent, not to be underestimated. This 1200m climb from the hut demands excellent fitness and sure footing. The descent matches the ascent’s difficulty, requiring complete focus and alertness.

Guided Ascents on the Matterhorn

While individual teams of experienced climbers scale the Matterhorn, most ascents are teams consisting of a mountain guide and his client. The climbing route is complicated and time-sensitive. Going with a guide is an investment in safety and success and is strongly recommended even for experienced climbers.

The climbers profile

Those signing up for a Matterhorn trip are normally returning clients with whom we have already done several other mountaineering courses. However, we accept climbers onto this program who are confident about their abilities and can list enough climbing experience. During the first days of training, the guide will assess whether a climber has what it takes to climb the Matterhorn.

Climb the Matterhorn – 6 days of great climbing
Join our 6-day Matterhorn program for an unforgettable adventure. The first four days focus on preparation climbs, refreshing and sharpening your skills for the ultimate challenge: scaling the iconic Matterhorn during the final two days.
We will take care of all planning, including checking conditions, hiring guides and ensuring the huts are booked well in advance. All you need is to arrive strong and fit for the challenge.

Training & acclimatisation days
The first four training days are spent in Chamonix on multi-pitch rock routes and various alpine climbs. The goal is to refresh skills and acclimatize before the Matterhorn attempt. We will pay specific attention to moving efficiently together on terrain resembling what we find on the Matterhorn. As the Matterhorn is close to 4500m in altitude, we will, during the training days, spend one night in a high mountain refuge and climb at altitude for optimum acclimatization. 

The Matterhorn Climb
We are all set and ready to go. We have 2 days reserved for the Matterhorn climb. You will be on a 1-1 ratio with your guide on the Matterhorn. This ensures optimum safety and a good flow during the climb.

During the Matterhorn climb, you will be roped all the way. The guide will mostly use short-roping techniques while securing tricky passages as they arrive, making small climbing pitches. We keep a certain speed to reach the summit within 4-5 hours. The descent from the top is considered as complex and time-consuming as the ascent. Making good time on our way up allows us enough time to descend the mountain carefully and swiftly before we get too tired or caught in an afternoon storm. The total time to climb and descend shouldn’t exceed 9-10 hours.

Bad weather – We make a plan “B.”
In case of bad weather or other conditions that render the climb of the Matterhorn too dangerous, the guide will turn the attention towards other significant climbs that are feasible at the time. We have many options in the Alps and can mostly drive to other areas where the weather is more stable. While this is an option, we always focus on taking on the Matterhorn challenge when possible.

The Matterhorn 4478m – A Unique Mountain
The Matterhorn, also known as Mont Cervino in Italian, is a striking mountain easily recognizable from a distance. Its steep and lengthy ridges divide the mountain from its base, creating a beautiful pyramidal shape with a sharp summit. This peak enjoys international renown for its iconic status, symbolizing the quintessence of the Swiss Alps and mountaineering.

Matterhorn was one of the last 4000m peaks to be climbed, and the successful ascent in 1865 by a party led by Edmund Whymper marked the end of what today is called the golden age of alpinism—10 years when most of the major Alpine peaks were scaled. Edmund Whymper’s book describes the history of the first ascension party.

General info on Matterhorn
First ascent of the Matterhorn

A proper challenge 
For enthusiastic mountaineers, an ascent of the Matterhorn is a highly desired goal in their climbing career. To attempt the Matterhorn, you need prior mountain experience, a relatively high technical level, and great fitness and endurance.

Two “normal” routes define the most commonly used routes to scale the Matterhorn. The Hörnli ridge (northeast ridge) is the most frequented and is the one we propose for this program. The South-West ridge from Italy, referred to as the “Lion Ridge,” is the second most climbed route to the summit.

Contrary to many other alpine routes, the Hörnli ridge has no big glaciers, crevasses, or any particular avalanche hazard. The climb is almost entirely on rocks except for the last part, which follows a steep snow slope to the summit.

The complex route-finding, the length (1200 height meters), the continuous steep terrain, and the rock-fall risk in some areas make it a challenging climb not to be underestimated.

This course can run with the specified prices when a minimum of 2 participants are joining.

Tour IDWeekStart dateFinish datePrice 1 personPrice 2 personsSpacesEnquire
MT131Monday 28 July 2025Saturday 2 August 20256,900€4550€ /person3 spaces left
MT232Monday 4 August 2025Saturday 9 August 20256,900€4550€ /personAvailable
MT3 - Custom programs30-35TBDTBDTBDTBDAvailable
Tour IdWeek No. – YearStart DateFinish DatePrice Per PersonSpacesBook Tour
MT1Week 31Monday 29th JulySaturday 3rd August4150-4950€/personYesEnquire ✉
MT2Week 32Monday 5th AugustSaturday 10th August4150-4950€/personYes Enquire ✉
MT3 – Custom Dates30-34To be definedTo be definedTo be definedYesEnquire ✉

We establish groups with a maximum of 4 participants.

Individual bookings
When booking as a single person, you will be with your private guide on a one-to-one basis for six days.

Group of 2
If you book as a group of 2, you will share a guide for the first 3 days. Each climber will be on a 1-1 ratio for the last three days.

Private Groups – Customized program (Mid-July – End of August).
Don’t hesitate to contact us for a personalized quote to climb as an entirely private group with a customised program.

Included

Planning & logistics
We plan the trip, hire guides, make hut reservations, and are available to answer all questions leading up to the trip.

UIAGM/IFMGA guides
The guides working with us hold the highest recognized mountaineering certificate. They are equally friendly and sociable.

Group equipment (ropes & safety gear)
The guides will supply the group security gear. You only need to make sure you have your equipment.

2 nights in mountain refuges on a half-board pension
We include the nights in mountain huts on a half-board pension (breakfast and dinners).

Transport to Zermatt
It’s possible to get a ride with the guide from Chamonix – Zermatt and back again after the attempt.

Excluded

Any cost not mentioned in the  “Included” section. The most important ones are:

Transport to Chamonix
Read more under “More information.”.

Valley Accommodation
Let us know if you need help with finding a hotel or other. Also, check our page “accommodation,” where we list places we recommend.

Lift-passes & Transportation
You can estimate about 200 euros for a lift ticket, but it can vary depending on which climbs we do.
When going to Zermatt, you will need to pay for your return train ticket from Täsch – Zermatt.

Personal climbing gear
Check our Matterhorn Equipment page or a short list below.

Lunches & drinks
Most huts take credit cards, but having cash for smaller amounts is best.

Insurance
You should make sure you are adequately insured. Check our page on insurance.

Other possible costs
If the weather makes climbing as planned impossible, the guides may propose a program further away. The guides will inform you if any extra costs are associated with this proposal.

 

Summer 2024

This course can run with the specified prices when a minimum of 2 participants are joining.

We establish groups with a maximum of 4 participants.

Individual bookings
When booking as a single person, you will be with your private guide on a one-to-one basis for six days.

Group of 2
If you book as a group of 2, you will share a guide for the first 3 days. Each climber will be on a 1-1 ratio for the last three days.

Private Groups – Customized program (Mid-July – End of August).
Don’t hesitate to contact us for a personalized quote to climb as an entirely private group with a customised program.

Included

Planning & logistics
We plan the trip, hire guides, make hut reservations, and are available to answer all questions leading up to the trip.

UIAGM/IFMGA guides
The guides working with us hold the highest recognized mountaineering certificate. They are equally friendly and sociable.

Group equipment (ropes & safety gear)
The guides will supply the group security gear. You only need to make sure you have your equipment.

2 nights in mountain refuges on a half-board pension
We include the nights in mountain huts on a half-board pension (breakfast and dinners).

Transport to Zermatt
It’s possible to get a ride with the guide from Chamonix – Zermatt and back again after the attempt.

Excluded

Any cost not mentioned in the  “Included” section. The most important ones are:

Transport to Chamonix
Read more under “More information.”.

Valley Accommodation
Let us know if you need help with finding a hotel or other. Also, check our page “accommodation,” where we list places we recommend.

Lift-passes & Transportation
You can estimate about 200 euros for a lift ticket, but it can vary depending on which climbs we do.
When going to Zermatt, you will need to pay for your return train ticket from Täsch – Zermatt.

Personal climbing gear
Check our Matterhorn Equipment page or a short list below.

Lunches & drinks
Most huts take credit cards, but having cash for smaller amounts is best.

Insurance
You should make sure you are adequately insured. Check our page on insurance.

Other possible costs
If the weather makes climbing as planned impossible, the guides may propose a program further away. The guides will inform you if any extra costs are associated with this proposal.

 

This course can run with the specified prices when a minimum of 2 participants are joining.

Tour IDWeekStart dateFinish datePrice 1 personPrice 2 personsSpacesEnquire
MT131Monday 28 July 2025Saturday 2 August 20256,900€4550€ /person3 spaces left
MT232Monday 4 August 2025Saturday 9 August 20256,900€4550€ /personAvailable
MT3 - Custom programs30-35TBDTBDTBDTBDAvailable

We establish groups with a maximum of 4 participants.

Individual bookings
When booking as a single person, you will be with your private guide on a one-to-one basis for six days.

Group of 2
If you book as a group of 2, you will share a guide for the first 3 days. Each climber will be on a 1-1 ratio for the last three days.

Private Groups – Customized program (Mid-July – End of August).
Don’t hesitate to contact us for a personalized quote to climb as an entirely private group with a customised program.

Included

Planning & logistics
We plan the trip, hire guides, make hut reservations, and are available to answer all questions leading up to the trip.

UIAGM/IFMGA guides
The guides working with us hold the highest recognized mountaineering certificate. They are equally friendly and sociable.

Group equipment (ropes & safety gear)
The guides will supply the group security gear. You only need to make sure you have your equipment.

2 nights in mountain refuges on a half-board pension
We include the nights in mountain huts on a half-board pension (breakfast and dinners).

Transport to Zermatt
It’s possible to get a ride with the guide from Chamonix – Zermatt and back again after the attempt.

Excluded

Any cost not mentioned in the  “Included” section. The most important ones are:

Transport to Chamonix
Read more under “More information.”.

Valley Accommodation
Let us know if you need help with finding a hotel or other. Also, check our page “accommodation,” where we list places we recommend.

Lift-passes & Transportation
You can estimate about 200 euros for a lift ticket, but it can vary depending on which climbs we do.
When going to Zermatt, you will need to pay for your return train ticket from Täsch – Zermatt.

Personal climbing gear
Check our Matterhorn Equipment page or a short list below.

Lunches & drinks
Most huts take credit cards, but having cash for smaller amounts is best.

Insurance
You should make sure you are adequately insured. Check our page on insurance.

Other possible costs
If the weather makes climbing as planned impossible, the guides may propose a program further away. The guides will inform you if any extra costs are associated with this proposal.

 

This course can run with the specified prices when a minimum of 2 participants are joining.

We establish groups with a maximum of 4 participants.

Individual bookings
When booking as a single person, you will be with your private guide on a one-to-one basis for six days.

Group of 2
If you book as a group of 2, you will share a guide for the first 3 days. Each climber will be on a 1-1 ratio for the last three days.

Private Groups – Customized program (Mid-July – End of August).
Don’t hesitate to contact us for a personalized quote to climb as an entirely private group with a customised program.

Included

Planning & logistics
We plan the trip, hire guides, make hut reservations, and are available to answer all questions leading up to the trip.

UIAGM/IFMGA guides
The guides working with us hold the highest recognized mountaineering certificate. They are equally friendly and sociable.

Group equipment (ropes & safety gear)
The guides will supply the group security gear. You only need to make sure you have your equipment.

2 nights in mountain refuges on a half-board pension
We include the nights in mountain huts on a half-board pension (breakfast and dinners).

Transport to Zermatt
It’s possible to get a ride with the guide from Chamonix – Zermatt and back again after the attempt.

Excluded

Any cost not mentioned in the  “Included” section. The most important ones are:

Transport to Chamonix
Read more under “More information.”.

Valley Accommodation
Let us know if you need help with finding a hotel or other. Also, check our page “accommodation,” where we list places we recommend.

Lift-passes & Transportation
You can estimate about 200 euros for a lift ticket, but it can vary depending on which climbs we do.
When going to Zermatt, you will need to pay for your return train ticket from Täsch – Zermatt.

Personal climbing gear
Check our Matterhorn Equipment page or a short list below.

Lunches & drinks
Most huts take credit cards, but having cash for smaller amounts is best.

Insurance
You should make sure you are adequately insured. Check our page on insurance.

Other possible costs
If the weather makes climbing as planned impossible, the guides may propose a program further away. The guides will inform you if any extra costs are associated with this proposal.

 

Training and Acclimatization
The itinerary for the first three days is not always identical from one course to another. As the summer advances, conditions change, and the guide in charge might decide on another program for these days. Any such changes will be announced at the latest during the briefing on arrival day.

Day 0 – Arrival day – Afternoon brief
We meet in Chamonix in the late afternoon. The guide will present the program.

Day 1 – Rock climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges
On this first day, we climb rocks in the Aiguilles Rouges. The guide will assess your climbing ability and physical fitness.

Day 2-3 – Mountain routes
We move into the mountains. We must acclimate for the Matterhorn and refresh our skills while having a great time on various mountain routes. We will stay one night in a mountain hut like the Torino, Cosmique, or the Albert Premier hut. The guide running the course makes the final choice.

Check this list of routes that we have used as training grounds leading up to a climb of the Matterhorn:

Travers of the Aiguilles des Entrèves
Traverse of the Marbrées
Traverse of the Chrochues
Traverse of the Perrons ridge
Aréte de Laurance + Cosmique ridge
Papillons Ridge
Aiguille du Moine
Aiguille d’Orny South ridge
Traverse of the N & S summit of the Aiguille du Tour
Aiguille du Tour – Table ridge
& various multi-pitch rock-climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges, Chatelard & Vallorcine.

Day 4 – Multi-pitch rock-climb
Whether you have booked as an individual or a group of two, everyone will be on a 1-1 ratio. On this fourth day, you will be sure to climb with the guide going with you on the Matterhorn.
Therefore, for groups of two climbers, a second guide will join the group for these days and, on the fourth day, get acquainted with the person he/she will climb with on the Matterhorn.

We spend the day optimizing whatever we need to improve before the Matterhorn attempt.
In the afternoon, the guide(s) will brief the group on the last two days of climbing the Matterhorn.

Day 5 – Travel to Zermatt – hike to the Hörnli hut
We drive from Chamonix to Täsch. From here, we take a short train ride to Zermatt. We take lifts from the Zermatt valley to Schwarzsee and walk to the Hornli hut. 3h.

Day 6 – Climb of the Matterhorn
An early morning start is required. We have a long day ahead of us. We need to move efficiently at a good speed. The first part of the route follows a series of small ledges and steeper steps. From the Solvay hut, the route gets steeper and more exposed. The final climb is equipped with fixed ropes before a final snow slope leads to the summit.

We should be able to reach the summit around 3.5-4.5 hours after leaving the hut. The descent follows the same itinerary as the ascent, with several rappels and lowers down the steep parts we climbed in the early morning.

We enjoy a rösti and a beer at the hut before returning to Chamonix.

Clothes

Shell jacket
Mountain Pants
Water-proof overtrousers
Shell pants
Base layers
Mid-layer
Extra warm layer
Warm hat
Neck gaiter / Buff
Warm gloves
Thinner technical gloves
Socks
Snow gaiters (Short summer version).
Trekking, running, or approach shoes

Technical equipment

30-35 litre backpack
Light summer mountaineering boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Telescopic pole
Helmet
Harness
2 x Screw karabiners
Rappel devise
Prusik loop
1x 120 cm sling
Rock-climbing shoes

Various items

Headlamp (w. fresh batteries).
Water bottles / Tea flask
Snacks
First-aid
Suncream & sun-stick
Snow goggles
Sunglasses
Money
Sleeping bag liner
Phone charger
Tooth-brush
Earplugs

Tour Grade: 4/D

Please read through the requirements for participating in this tour and follow the link to the “grading page.”

Technical Level

To participate, you are expected to have previous rock-climbing and alpine climbing experience. You need to be able to climb grades 4-4+ in mountaineering boots and quickly and easily down-climb grades 2-3 in mountain shoes. Much of the terrain is less hard but takes narrow paths between steep terrain, where loose rocks are not far. You will mostly be moving together with the guide, and it’s very important that you are sure-footed and able to keep a good and steady pace on rock. Prior knowledge of using crampons and ice axe is fundamental to participating, as we will not have much time to practice before we set foot on the sometimes icy upper slopes of the Matterhorn.
Being in a very good physical condition and having a rational and strong mind is very important in succeeding in the climb.

Fitness

Climbing the Matterhorn requires a very high level of physical fitness and endurance, including strength, cardio, and flexibility. Specific training should include rock climbing, hiking, mountaineering, and cardiovascular exercise such as running or cycling. Climbing the Matterhorn is often a several-year project. Having a very good base fitness is crucial for any wanting to start training for the Matterhorn.

General Information

Getting to Chamonix or the course venue
For most of our clients, the easiest way to get to Chamonix or the Alps, in general, is by plane. The nearest airport is Geneva.
Read more about getting to Chamonix here – Click here.

Valley accommodation
Not everyone wants the same accommodation type, so we rarely include Valley accommodation. Check our suggested hotels, B&B, and campsites on this page – Click here.

If you want us to include hotel nights in the price, please let us know what standard you are looking for.

Insurance
You must take out search & rescue, repatriation, and cancellation insurance. Read more about insurance here – Click here.

Safety
We believe our finest task is to give every client a unique mountain experience without taking unnecessary risks. The experience of the mountain guide, access to the most recent weather forecasts, and information sharing between guides are some of the important elements for making good and sound judgment calls. Suppose conditions or other situations render an attempt at a peak dangerous, avalanche conditions of a ski tour no longer possible, etc.. In that case, the guide will do his/her best to devise a good alternate plan. This might be a 100% change of the program. Emphasis is put on staying safe and having a great time!

Mountain huts
In some of our courses, we stay in mountain huts. On hut-to-hut trips, they are part of the itinerary; at other times, we use them as the starting point for a climb or ski tour.
The mountain huts offer basic accommodation in bunk-style rooms. Blankets and duvets are in the huts, so you don’t need to bring a sleeping bag. It is obligatory to bring a sleeping bag liner.
We are served a simple breakfast and a 3-course dinner (soup, main meal, dessert).
We will let the guardian of the hut know if you are on a special diet (vegetarians, allergies, etc.). Vegans will need to bring supplementary food.
There are hut slippers available for use inside the hut.
It’s helpful to bring cash for personal expenses (water, soft drinks, beer, lunches, etc.)
There is mostly no tap water in the huts, and you must buy bottled water.
You will be able to charge your phone.
Some mountain huts have showers. You must mostly pay for this; only a few huts can provide towels.

Make a booking
Please read through all the course information. Please make sure that you have the required level to join the course.
Contact us if you have any questions.

Read more about the booking process here – Click here.

We will need all to join a course to complete our “Participation Form.”